Our deepest appreciation

Lynne and I met many years ago. We taught in the same language school in Indonesia. Our desks were next to each other’s in the teachers’ room, so it was easy for us to become good friends. In fact, it was a joy going to work and having long yarns with her between lessons.

Living overseas is always challenging. And the ins and outs and complexity of Southeast Asia were tough for many of us middle class westerners. Plus soon after Lynne arrived in Indonesia, there was a huge devaluation of the rupia. So after only one year, Lynne and her then spouse, Ed, returned to Japan, where they had previously worked. I, on the other hand, stayed on for quite a while longer. However, Lynne and I remained friends and always kept in touch.

Lynne and Ed taught in Japan for a further four years before returning to the UK, where they set up a business of their own. However, Ed missed the Japanese way of life tremendously. Lynne could understand his feelings, but did not wish to return there. So they parted ways amicably. Ed returned to Japan, whilst Lynne moved on to Tanzania. There she met an Australian man named Eric, who came from a long line of seamen and he had a prawn trawler. Eric’s dream was to build a yacht and go sailing. Lynne, forever loving adventure, was delighted to join him in working towards this dream.

After a few hard years in the fishing industry, the time came when Lynne and Eric were able to go to Australia and build the boat they longed for. That was how the SV Amarula was born. Initially, as they still had the fishing business in Tanzania, they decided to offer cruises on the Tanzanian coastline, as it was so beautiful and they wanted to share it. Plus Eric could see the potential in that marvelously rich, exceedingly beautiful, culturally diverse area of the world.

At first they ran various charters out of Dar Es Salaam. They did day trips for small groups and corporations. They also worked with scientists doing marine research projects. For those they went to Cosmoledo and Aldabra atolls in the Seychelles.

They also branched out and offered five-day excursions to exotic-sounding Zanzibar. Those were usually with small family groups, some with three generations, with ages from 84 to teeny tots.

“Those were by far the best”, said Lynne. “Everyone really enjoyed their family time away from everything. We did some swimming, snorkeling, diving and fishing. We stopped off at deserted beaches and sandbanks.”

During this time Eric was involved in a shipping project on Lake Victoria. As they struggled for this to materialize, they continued running charters. Time in Africa moves slowly, however. And after years of waiting, they were ready to move on. So, they once again condensed their lives onto their boat and went sailing.

They were eager to discover places further afield. They began with Kenya over the 2006-2007 New Year. They then sailed down the Mozambique coast as far as Ilha, the capital during the Portuguese colonial days. From there they crossed the Mozambique Channel to visit Mayotte, the French island within the Coromos group. They ventured on to Madagascar. That country really stole their hearts, so they are back there this year for a longer time.

Although, they do not run charters anymore, they can see the tremendous potential for it in Tanzania. “It will take off some day. It is just a matter of time,” Lynne predicts. In recent years the safari market has exploded, especially since Kenya’s problems have sent many tourists to its nearest southern neighbor. So, it is a natural next step for cruises to become part of the tourist package.

The greatest joy for Lynne in her unusual lifestyle is the “freedom to explore places that very few people get to. It is such a gift to sail to a deserted sandbank, have the place to ourselves, and leave when we feel like it.”

“How could we ever want when we have explored coral reefs and atolls, gone kayaking with whales, and had dolphins and whales swimming alongside our boat and playing in our waves?”

“Sailing at nighttime with the full moon and stars is incredibly special. And there are the amazing sunrises and sunsets. Oh, how we love our life on board!”

Lynne deeply appreciates the many phenomenal natural worlds around her, but much, much more as well. Africa itself has captured her heart, too. “Africa is so raw and rich in natural beauty and colors. I marvel sailing in the tropical blue oceans and exploring the stunning coastline. And the people! Oh, how I appreciate their amazing skills as sailors and their simple, but efficient vessels that remain the same generation after generation. We share drinking water with thirsty fishermen and trade coffee, tea, and sugar for their fresh catch, or for the fruits and vegetables the local villagers grow. I love driving through the countryside and seeing life going on as it has for thousands of years with very few changes.”

Eventually Lynne and Eric plan to return to Australia. But it will be terribly difficult to leave Africa, their home for almost twenty years. Eric sees so much potential there. And his projects to improve people’s lives are what drive him. But “No Hurry in Africa” means that years of waiting and life times of patience are required. So, most probably Lynne and Eric will move on before all their dreams reach fruition. But seeds have been planted. And they have a very rich and full life to look back upon.

But it is far from over! “There are so many more places we want to go to. There is South America. And Asia, of course. And who knows? In our old age we may even explore the Med. But for now we just want to go sailing. It is in our bones, our blood. And maybe that’s our way to embrace the world and to offer our deepest appreciation back to it for all the gifts and privileges it has and does ceaselessly bestow upon us.”